This folks is the view from one of the 4 thousand islands of Laos, Don Det. We stayed here for 2 nights on our way to the Cambodian border...
I rented a bicycle and rode around the island, across the bridge to the larger island of Don Kong, caught a glimpse of what village life is like. Simple. The people seem very laid back and happy, for the most part. A smile is always shown for those who show their own. However, this island did something to me I think... it affected me in such a way that my façon de penser is different, altered.
The women of the island have this strange, far-out look in their eyes... they don't smile as often... and they do EVERYTHING from the cooking to the cleaning, from the serving to the money handling, from the child rearing to the arts & crafts. The men? They fish, they drink, they talk, and sometimes they build something. But this look in their eyes... I mean, I can't say I know what it is or what it stems from looking through my white western feminist lenses, but it is definitly something I would like to research possibly... obtain a better understanding, well, an understanding PERIOD. It's so weird...
And another thing Carly and I got to thinking about is the country's politics. We befriended a man named Mr. Boon; 27 years old, engaged to the Chief's daughter, educated in the hotel/restaurant industry, runs a bar and a trekking outfit. Very busy young man. Big heart. Has a complete imbecile named Martin running the trekking office; brittish, almost 40, alcoholic, big dreams, immature, unreliable, a bit of a story-teller if you know what I mean. Ya. Carly was supposed to help him take a group climbing - she's experienced so he'd have given her 1/2 price to help him out - but she showed up to meet him in the morning (8am) and he didn't pull up on a boat from the mainland til 9:30am or so, still drunk, cancelled the climbing. Mr. Boon is shafted, the climbers are too. He almost kept Carly's deposit to boot. Great dude eh? So we told Mr. Boon our thoughts on Martin... Mr. Boon told us a bit about how business works out there. It's very interesting being in a place where tourism is still so new. These people - in the more remote areas - want to make money cuz they are told this is what is good; but the guesthouses are the people's homes, opened up to the outsiders. The tourists come and expect to be served, expect to be cleaned up after, expect good service where ever they go. The locals aren't slaves, they go at their own pace. It's the tourists who don't understand, not the locals. So anyhow, Carly and I did what we could, in the short time we spent there, by bringing our dirty plates up ourselves, running food when it was busy, cleaning up after ourselves and spreading our smiles and talking with them. It was a very unique experience.
Laos overall is a wonderful country ---- in transition. I hope it doesn't end up like Mexico... I loved my time in this country and have every intention of coming back within the year and after that as well.
Border crossing fun...
Just so you know: it IS possible to get a Cambodian visa at the south border crossing - this is contrary what the travel agents will have you believe; not to mention the fact that you'll pay the proper price of $20 rather than the $35-$40 the agents will require for "service fees". You can even get visa photos taken there. Apparently the borders have been cleaned up after the numerous complaints of folks trying to get into Cambodia, especially through Thailand. See what can be achieved when people speak up about something??
I could just picture army dudes hiding in the thick jungles on either side of us, guns cocked and ready to fire, fear and determination in their eyes. The road was terrible. The feeling and energy was worse... especially in that "no man's land" between Laos and Cambodia. So many people have fought and died in these countries, more bombs were dropped on Laos than any other country, more landmines in Cambodia that still haven't all been uncovered - let alone found. People use the old american bombs as heanging bells! It's so strange... But we got through no problem and we made it to Ban Long AOK, albeit the most inertesting ride of my life. Picture this: a taxi with the driver, myself and Carly in the front, 3 women, 5 children, and1 infant in the back, for 3 hours from the border to Ban Long. The way it works is that tourists pay the whole cost of getting where they need to go and the driver goes and finds as many locals as he can to pile in the car with you... they ride for free. And the road we took to Ban Long is the same road that will take you to the Viet Nam border and this is the worst road of all time, I kid you not. We have footage, I will show you when I mean.
We spent 4 nights altogether here, one of which was at an eco lodge in the jungle mountains, near the hill tribes. Awesome place. Everything's organic, hand made by the tribe people, fair trade. Great place to stay and enjoy the nature... and not as dusty as the town!! We took a hike through the jungle with a guide who is from one of the hill tribes and so knows the language and the history and just that way of life. It was so interesting and informative! We learned about the different trees, the different uses for the leaves and the roots, the different fruits that grow from them, the cash crops, the rice harvesting... we visited a chicken farm! haha No avion flu here, no worries. ;-) (Getting into the US is going to be interesting...) We saw a 15 year old woman - married for 2 years, had a small child, pregnant with another - hunched over and hand weaving a wall hanging that would easily go for $200 back home that she is selling for $10. Crazy. We tried some homemade rice wine and sipped some crazy strong moonshine! Smoked real tobacco - straight from the tree - rolled up in a leaf to boot! Such beautiful people... We loved it. But I wouldn't recommend coming here if you're not a fan of extremely hot climates, dry, and a hit load of dust.
And now I'm in Kratie, got here by taxi this time filled with 4 grown men, 1 old lady, a driver, and of course Carly and I. haha Awesome. We'll probably stay here tonight and tomorrow night and head for Phnom Penh Sunday morning early. I will be volunteering there with the same organization Carly has been volunteering with: Rain Water Cambodia. I am looking forward to this very much as it's been far too long since I have done anything to help any community.
Until then, take care and keep reading me... I appreciate all your comments and I apologise if I don't respond to them. They really warm my heart though, truly. (Sahana, I responded to your comments from 3 posts ago, I believe.)
Even though the thought of Cambodia is a negative one, equipped with not-so-nice connotations and illustrations, but it's much different actually BEING here. Sketchy and dodgy, YES, but not all the time and not much different from back home. I'm being smart and I have a woman with me who's quite in tune with her intuition and is teaching me to tune into my own a little better. Please don't worry about me. I promise I'll be writing much more often now that I'm out of the remote jungles and islands.
I love you all.
8 comments:
Rabbit, yes I read your post reply to me :0 no worries. I know its crazy when you are travelling. It is awesome that you are able to keep up with this online journal and thank you for sharing your experiences. I enjoy reading your thoughts on "all about life".
Its 14th Jan today and I realised that in a month, on Valentine's Day, we can celebrate the 1 year anniversary of our re-connection. Vagina Monologues, hurray, pot, hukka, photographs, smoking, stories, sharing, sabrina, chips, condo, love, love, love... Hugs S.
Oh Sahana... so cute! Thank-you for bringing a smile and a giggle! One year since our reconnection eh? Awesome. I love you and miss very much.
*muah*
Hi beautiful!!
I can't wait to see how you'll put you're amazing insights to work when you come back to so called "civilization". I love hearing your perspectives and you inspire me, my dear. Continue your exploration with that wildly open mind of yours so that you can broaden all of our humble horizons!
luvs...Jami
awe... I miss you Jami! Truly. I have a sneaky suspicion that you and I will cross paths more often upon my return. I hope so anyhow. Thank you for your words and for thinking about me. Take care of yourself and you KNOW I'll fill you with loads of insight when I get back... ;-)
love you!
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